In “A Little Bit of What You Fancy,” Dr. Desmond Morris reflects on his mother’s carefree approach to eating and its contrast with modern health advice. His mother, born during the Victorian era, indulged in hearty meals without concern for diet trends, living to 99 years old. Morris suggests her longevity was partly due to her lack of anxiety about food, which allowed her body to digest meals well. In contrast, modern health advice often induces stress, negatively impacting digestion and overall health.

Morris critiques contemporary diet gurus who frequently change their recommendations and ignore the fact that humans evolved as omnivores. He argues that a varied diet is crucial for health, as our bodies can select needed nutrients from a wide range of foods and dispose of the rest. Problems like obesity and indigestion in today’s society, he contends, are more related to lifestyle and stress rather than specific foods. Inactive and anxious people tend to eat for comfort, leading to poor digestion and health issues.

The essay also explores why certain foods are taboo in some cultures. Morris explains that ancient tribes often adopted totemic animals, which they revered and protected, sometimes resulting in food taboos. Additionally, a primal fear of poisoning led humans to be cautious about certain foods, a caution that persists even when it’s no longer necessary. This fear is exploited by modern health advisors who create anxiety about eating specific foods, tapping into ancient survival instincts.

Morris observes that the West has access to an unprecedented variety of high-quality foods, improved through thousands of years of selective breeding. Despite concerns about genetic modification, he notes that agriculture has always involved altering plants and animals for better yield and nutrition.

Morris suggests that to truly enjoy food, one should savor and relish it without guilt or anxiety. He shares a personal anecdote about his mother, who, even on her deathbed, wanted a gin and tonic, embodying her philosophy of enjoying life to the fullest. Morris himself expected to die ten years earlier, based on statistical predictions, but his disregard for health fads and his commitment to enjoying a wide variety of foods might have contributed to his longevity.

Ultimately, Morris advocates for a balanced, varied diet enjoyed without stress, challenging the health fads and dietary restrictions that dominate modern culture. He concludes with his mother’s philosophy: if one must go, it’s best to go with a swing, enjoying life’s pleasures until the end.